The Golden Circle and South Coast - August 30, 2023

The Arctic Adventure begins at Thingvellir National Park

Our tour company, Arctic Adventures, had instructed us to be ready for pick up at Bus Stop #6 at 8:00 a.m. this morning. It was a short walk from our hotel. We arrived in good time and then watched as bus after bus stopped to pick up tourists. Some of the buses were offering day trips; some were from rival companies; and there was another bus from Arctic Adventures that was not ours. To pass the time as we waited, both Jess and I visited the grassy hill beside us where stands a statue of Ingólfur Aarosn who founded the country in 874. I must admit, I was getting slightly anxious that we had been forgotten, when at 8:30, our bus arrived. Clearly, it was designed for a longer tour as it had a trailer attached to it for luggage.

Ingólfur Amarson statue

The statue looks over the Harpa Concert Hall

When we boarded, we discovered that the majority of the seats were taken, so we sat in individual seats on the right side, one behind the other. This was a lucky accident since we always had a view out of the window–and I soon discovered that I loved looking out at Iceland's fascinating landscape. 

Our van with our luggage in tow. 

All aboard our comfy mini-bus

Once all passengers were on the bus, we introduced ourselves. We were seventeen tourists in total: seven Americans, two Filipinos, two Ukrainians, one Mexican, one German, one Brazilian, one Chinese and, of course, we two Canadians. Our guide, Sólmundur, whom we called Soly, was a native Icelander. This was the most diverse group I had ever travelled with. We ranged in age from the mid-twenties to the mid-seventies, and yet, by the end of our week together, we were like family to each other.

Looking over the expanse that is the rift valley of Thingvellir National Park. The Eurasian tectonic plate is in the distance.

The Prime Minster's summer home

Our first day began with travel to the famous "Golden Circle". A UNESCO World Heritage site, Thingvellir National Park was our first stop. This is where the first Icelandic parliament was established in 930 AD and continued to gather until 1798. The Prime Minister's summer residence can be seen in the area today. Beyond the area's historical significance, it is also notable for its unique geology. The Sitra fissure lies between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, essentially making the country part of two continents. Iceland is the only place in the world where this rift is above sea level.

This cliff is the edge of North America

A final look at Thingvellir National Park

We headed next to a geothermally active area where we visited Great Geysir, the thing that gave geysers their name. Today, this original geyser (Great Geysir) erupts rarely, but very close by is Strukkur, a very cooperative geyser that performs for the public every five to ten minutes. Soly suggested a good spot to wait for the show, and as advertised, Strukkur erupted.

Strokkur in action

The geothermal area

We spent another fifteen or twenty minutes wandering the paths in the geothermal field, where we saw pools of bubbling water, hot springs. and mineral covered ground. It was a very special place, reminiscent of parts of Yellowstone National Park, which I had visited in 2022.

Gullfoss from the path beside it. 

Looking down on Gullfoss

The final stop of the Golden Circle tour is the Gullfoss, the "Golden Waterfall" of Iceland. It was the first of many beautiful cataracts that we saw in the country. Located in the Hvitá river canyon, Gullfoss is a two-tier waterfall and is notable for its glow, hence its name. We saw it from two vantage points. First, we walked along a pathway at the same level as the river until we were directly beside the cascade. Later, we climbed to a higher viewpoint above the Gullfoss and looked down over the scene. 

Lunch and view

The Langjöfell Glacier in the distance

Nearby, we stopped for lunch at the Panorama Restaurant, a café that sold light fare and provided views towards the Langjökull glacier that feeds the Gullfoss. Jess and I were entertained as we ate by a young man outside our window who was diligently trying to construct an inukshuk. 

Justin approaching Seljalandsfoss

Jess approaching Seljalandsfoss

While other tour buses on day trips headed back to Reykjavik after touring the Golden Circle, we had much more to see on our first day of travel. We motored next to the South Coast, where after about an hour and a half, we arrived at the Seljalandsfoss, another spectacular cascade. "Foss" means waterfall, by the way. As we approached it, Soly quizzed us, asking if any of us knew what this waterfall's claim to fame was. No one knew the answer at first, but when he nudged us Canadians, Jess, popular culture expert that she is, guessed the answer correctly. Here was where our compatriot, Justin Bieber, filmed his music video of "I'll Show You". 

In front

On the east side

Seljalandsfoss drops 60 meters from a cliff that once marked Iceland's coastline. It originates from underneath the Eviafjallajökull glacier. Soly advised us to put on our rainwear before following the path that encircles the waterfall. Good advice. I was a little nervous about slipping as we moved around this unique cascade but I am very pleased that we did it. We got soaking wet but we managed to take photos from every angle. 

Behind

On the west side - very wet, but happy

We headed next to our third waterfall of the day. The Skógafoss is 25 meters wide and 60 meters tall and thus creates a wall of water that is easily approached since the ground is flat and easily walkable. Jess held back and caught me against this magnificent background. Kristian, one of our travel mates, captured an even more spectacular shot of Jaycee. 

I approach Skógafoss

Jaycee against a wall of water. Great shot. 

Nearby, it is possible to climb 570 steps to the top of of the cliff from which the cascade falls but Jess and I decided not to do that. Instead, we walked along the edge of the river where we spotted sheep and cattle.  

Striped cow

Sheep on the other side of the river

The path not travelled

 

The final stop on our long and delightful day of touring was Reynisfjara black sand beach, made famous in The Game of Thrones and several films as well. It was a spectacular way to end our day, as the late afternoon sun just added to the beauty of the spot. 

Those folks are too close to the water

Mother and daughter lit up by the late day sun. 

Before we left the bus, Soly showed us a video of the possible consequences of turning our backs to the water: we just might be swept away to sea by a "sneaker wave". Thus warned, we headed towards the Atlantic. The sand is indeed very black since it has been created by lava rock. In the distance, jutting out of the water, are large basalt columns, which according to local legend, were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to the shore. 

The cave

Puffins

Hálsanefshellir, a small basalt cave surrounded by long rectangular rocks, is easily accessible from the beach. It was a great point of interest for us, as above it, Soly spotted a few puffins nesting on the grassy cliff. It also provided a gorgeous background for photos. 

Mary against the rocks

Looking west on the beach

As the sun lowered in the sky, we headed to our hotel a few kilometres away from the hamlet of Vik. It was, literally, in the middle of nowhere. In fact, over dinner there, we learned that our tour company also owned this accommodation and restaurant. What a good plan!

Church in Vik

Our hotel and restaurant

The view out our window the next morning.

If every day was going to be as good as this first one was, we were in for a treat. 

 

 

 

The Blue Lagoon and Reykjavik - August 29, 2023

Enjoying the sunshine in Reykjavik

One day in the spring, Jess asked me if I would like to travel with her to Iceland. A few of my friends had visited this northern country and had enjoyed their time there, so I thought, "Why not?" In no time at all, we had chosen a date, a tour, and had purchased our flights. (To be honest, Jess made all these decisions; I just agreed to them.)

This expanse of blue was outside the Blue Lagoon complex

Steam rising from the water

Our flight would rob us of a night's sleep, but, undaunted, we decided to head to the famous Blue Lagoon first. We had booked a bus from the airport before we left Canada, and all we had to do was arrive on time to make the connection. Alas, we were an hour late getting to Iceland, so we had to grab a taxi instead. Our first excursion, already quite costly in Canadian dollars, became even more so.

Our first selfie

This gives an idea of the size of the lagoon

I had heard mixed reviews of the Blue Lagoon, but we loved it. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We had gorgeous weather, a perfect summer's day in Iceland. After an overnight flight, it was relaxing and fun to soak in a hot bath, and to enjoy the perks that came with our admission.

Morning libations

Masking

One of these was a drink at the lagoon bar–I opted for a glass of rose, Jess chose a beer. Here we were, drinking at 7:00 a.m. Toronto time. The other was a pat of a mixture of silica and algae which we applied to our faces as a mask. We looked like members of a large group of kabuki performers wandering around in the milky blue water. 

The Danish Embassy is a reminder that we were in a national capital

Soup in a bread bowl. 

By midday, we were relaxed and ready to head to Reykjavik, Iceland's capital city; our bus dropped us off at a stop near our hotel. After check-in, we sought out a place for lunch. When Jess discovered that the soups at Svarta Kaffid were cream based, she left me to enjoy my lunch while she found another restaurant nearby. An American couple sitting near me invited me to join them. That was a lovely gesture, and typical of the warmth we experienced in Iceland.

Rainbow street

Colourful Ice Cream shop

I met Jess on Skipholt, Reykjavik's "rainbow street". Iceland is one of the most LGBTQ friendly countries in the world, and its capital is full of colour. Our plan for the rest of the day was to explore the city on foot. 

Geometry everywhere at Hallgrimskirka Church

Jess and Leif

We headed first to Hallgrimskirkja Church, the country's largest. Completed in 1985 after 41 years of construction, its distinctive shape was inspired by the trap rocks, mountains and glaciers of Iceland's landscape. We visited the interior of the church as well but it was nowhere near as impressive as the exterior. In front of the building is a statue of famous explorer, Leif Erickson, which was donated to Iceland by the US in 1930, long before the church was constructed. That year was the thousandth anniversary of Iceland's first parliament in 930. 

The Harpa Concert Hall

Landsbankinn Building

We meandered from there to see another distinctive modern building in the city. Completed in 2011, the Harpa Concert Hall stands close to the water, and is reflected in a pool which fronts it. Next to it, another interesting building is nearing completion. It will house the country's largest bank, Landsbankinn. I really liked the look of it, and have since discovered that it is a "green' building, and is meant to suggest Iceland's rugged landscape. 

Inukshuks along the shore

From there, we headed south east along the waterfront toward the Sun Voyager sculpture. The first photo in this post was taken during this part of our walk. The sculpture itself looks like a representation of a Viking ship. It was erected on the occasion of Reykjavik's 200th anniversary, and according to the artist, Jón Gunnar Árnason, it is a "dreamboat, or an ode to the sun meant to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom."

The Prime Minister's Office

The French Hospital

During our walk, I noticed a few older buildings too, although Reykjavik is a relatively new city by European standards. One of these is the Prime Minister's Office with a statue of of Hannes Hafstein, a nineteenth century poet and politician, in front of it. Its history goes back over 250 years, when it was first used as a dungeon. The other is The French Hospital, built in 1902. It was intended to provide medical care for seamen in the fishing grounds to the west of Iceland, the vast majority of whom were from France. 

Haunting mural

I got my wings

We also passed by some interesting art. What do you make of the ghostly mural that we spotted on a house? It is very evocative, I think. Of course, Jess could not resist photographing her mother with wings. I have posed this way before–in Mexico, where angels are much loved. 

Loved this store

Colourful place.

Back in the centre of the city, I again admired the charm of the buildings there. Reykjavik has a lot of appeal, with its small size, its openness to all visitors, and its casual vibe. As the afternoon turned into evening, we slowed down and grabbed something to eat for dinner. We chose an Italian place on the main street, Rossopomodoro, where I had some pizza. 

The view from the bus

The historical Reykjavik Junior College as seen from the bus.

Jess and I saw a fair bit of Reykjavik, but we could have used more time there. I had glimpsed a great view from the bus, and we passed by the Culture House twice but we never went inside. Once the home of the National Library and the National Archives, it is now an art gallery. 

The Culture House is one of the country's most beautiful buildings. 

We left Reykjavik the next morning with the hope that on our return from our tour, we could see more of the city. It had delighted us.