Mother Daughter Touring: The Golden Circle and South Coast

The Arctic Adventure begins at Thingvellir National Park

Our tour company, Arctic Adventures, had instructed us to be ready for pick up at Bus Stop #6 at 8:00 a.m. this morning. It was a short walk from our hotel. We arrived in good time and then watched as bus after bus stopped to pick up tourists. Some of the buses were offering day trips; some were from rival companies; and there was another bus from Arctic Adventures that was not ours. To pass the time as we waited, both Jess and I visited the grassy hill beside us where stands a statue of Ingólfur Aarosn who founded the country in 874. I must admit, I was getting slightly anxious that we had been forgotten, when at 8:30, our bus arrived. Clearly, it was designed for a longer tour as it had a trailer attached to it for luggage.

Ingólfur Amarson statue

The statue looks over the Harpa Concert Hall

When we boarded, we discovered that the majority of the seats were taken, so we sat in individual seats on the right side, one behind the other. This was a lucky accident since we always had a view out of the window–and I soon discovered that I loved looking out at Iceland's fascinating landscape.

Our van with our luggage in tow.

All aboard our comfy mini-bus

Once all passengers were on the bus, we introduced ourselves. We were seventeen tourists in total: seven Americans, two Filipinos, two Ukrainians, one Mexican, one German, one Brazilian, one Chinese and, of course, we two Canadians. Our guide, Sólmundur, whom we called Soly, was a native Icelander. This was the most diverse group I had ever travelled with. We ranged in age from the mid-twenties to the mid-seventies, and yet, by the end of our week together, we were like family to each other.

Looking over the expanse that is the rift valley of Thingvellir National Park. The Eurasian tectonic plate is in the distance.

The Prime Minster's summer home

Our first day began with travel to the famous "Golden Circle". A UNESCO World Heritage site, Thingvellir National Park was our first stop. This is where the first Icelandic parliament was established in 930 AD and continued to gather until 1798. The Prime Minister's summer residence can be seen in the area today. Beyond the area's historical significance, it is also notable for its unique geology. The Sitra fissure lies between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, essentially making the country part of two continents. Iceland is the only place in the world where this rift is above sea level.

This cliff is the edge of North America

A final look at Thingvellir National Park

We headed next to a geothermally active area where we visited Great Geysir, the thing that gave geysers their name. Today, this original geyser (Great Geysir) erupts rarely, but very close by is Strukkur, a very cooperative geyser that performs for the public every five to ten minutes. Soly suggested a good spot to wait for the show, and as advertised, Strukkur erupted.

Strokkur in action

The geothermal area

We spent another fifteen or twenty minutes wandering the paths in the geothermal field, where we saw pools of bubbling water, hot springs. and mineral covered ground. It was a very special place, reminiscent of parts of Yellowstone National Park, which I had visited in 2022.

Gullfoss from the path beside it.

Looking down on Gullfoss

The final stop of the Golden Circle tour is the Gullfoss, the "Golden Waterfall" of Iceland. It was the first of many beautiful cataracts that we saw in the country. Located in the Hvitá river canyon, Gullfoss is a two-tier waterfall and is notable for its glow, hence its name. We saw it from two vantage points. First, we walked along a pathway at the same level as the river until we were directly beside the cascade. Later, we climbed to a higher viewpoint above the Gullfoss and looked down over the scene.

Lunch and view

The Langjöfell Glacier in the distance

Nearby, we stopped for lunch at the Panorama Restaurant, a café that sold light fare and provided views towards the Langjökull glacier that feeds the Gullfoss. Jess and I were entertained as we ate by a young man outside our window who was diligently trying to construct an inukshuk.

Justin approaching Seljalandsfoss

Jess approaching Seljalandsfoss

While other tour buses on day trips headed back to Reykjavik after touring the Golden Circle, we had much more to see on our first day of travel. We motored next to the South Coast, where after about an hour and a half, we arrived at the Seljalandsfoss, another spectacular cascade. "Foss" means waterfall, by the way. As we approached it, Soly quizzed us, asking if any of us knew what this waterfall's claim to fame was. No one knew the answer at first, but when he nudged us Canadians, Jess, popular culture expert that she is, guessed the answer correctly. Here was where our compatriot, Justin Bieber, filmed his music video of "I'll Show You".

In front

On the east side

Seljalandsfoss drops 60 meters from a cliff that once marked Iceland's coastline. It originates from underneath the Eviafjallajökull glacier. Soly advised us to put on our rainwear before following the path that encircles the waterfall. Good advice. I was a little nervous about slipping as we moved around this unique cascade but I am very pleased that we did it. We got soaking wet but we managed to take photos from every angle.

Behind

On the west side - very wet, but happy

We headed next to our third waterfall of the day. The Skógafoss is 25 meters wide and 60 meters tall and thus creates a wall of water that is easily approached since the ground is flat and easily walkable. Jess held back and caught me against this magnificent background. Kristian, one of our travel mates, captured an even more spectacular shot of Jaycee.

I approach Skógafoss

Jaycee against a wall of water. Great shot.

Nearby, it is possible to climb 570 steps to the top of of the cliff from which the cascade falls but Jess and I decided not to do that. Instead, we walked along the edge of the river where we spotted sheep and cattle.

Striped cow

Sheep on the other side of the river

The path not travelled

The final stop on our long and delightful day of touring was Reynisfjara black sand beach, made famous in The Game of Thrones and several films as well. It was a spectacular way to end our day, as the late afternoon sun just added to the beauty of the spot.

Those folks are too close to the water

Mother and daughter lit up by the late day sun.

Before we left the bus, Soly showed us a video of the possible consequences of turning our backs to the water: we just might be swept away to sea by a "sneaker wave". Thus warned, we headed towards the Atlantic. The sand is indeed very black since it has been created by lava rock. In the distance, jutting out of the water, are large basalt columns, which according to local legend, were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to the shore.

The cave

Puffins

Hálsanefshellir, a small basalt cave surrounded by long rectangular rocks, is easily accessible from the beach. It was a great point of interest for us, as above it, Soly spotted a few puffins nesting on the grassy cliff. It also provided a gorgeous background for photos.

Mary against the rocks

Looking west on the beach

As the sun lowered in the sky, we headed to our hotel a few kilometres away from the hamlet of Vik. It was, literally, in the middle of nowhere. In fact, over dinner there, we learned that our tour company also owned this accommodation and restaurant. What a good plan!